Win Free Men's Clothing - Bonobos "Work Essentials Giveaway" - USA only!

I have been asked by the extremely kind and forgiving (I completely missed his original email) Jason at Bonobos, the US men's clothing company, to see if I was interested posting about a competition they're having. I am. Normally I may think twice about promoting without trying the product myself but after seeing that two of the prizes available are from the handmade English shoe company, Grenson and that it's a free prize draw I decided to offer it to you.

Of course, you will have to submit your email for a chance to win any of these items and that means you will get some correspondence from them and from third parties unless you unsubscribe. But they look good and that is the way they can offer these items for free. But you know that.

So if you wish to win some cool gear then hit the link below and enter the draw. I hope you win and please let me know if you do and how it went.

This is only open to people in the US and entries will not be given to those outside the US or need it to be shipped outside the US.

The "Work Essentials Giveaway" is running from 3rd of March 2014 to 16th of March 2014. So only a few days left. They will be giving away over $3,000 worth of work clothing and accessories. This includes a suit from their Foundation Suit Collection, four dress shirts from their new collection and everything else you need to take your everyday style to the next level!

The Prizes are individual items mostly, not all of the picture above. Enjoy and hope you win.

Click here to enter

 

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The Grand Budapest Hotel

If you're a fan of quirky, eccentric and wonderfully delightful cinema then go and see The Grand Budapest Hotel immediately. It is truly beautiful and poetic such as films rarely are nowadays. The director is Wes Anderson who's CV includes Rushmore, The Royal Tenenbaums, The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou and now The Grand Budapest Hotel.

My post is not truly continuing as it may seem as a simple plug/gush about how good this is but I encourage any fan of good cinema to see it. Whilst I sincerely dissmiss most cinemas these days as souless carriages of overpriced Box Office rubbish with a simple Popcorn and Drink seemingly doubling the ticket fee there is every now an again a film which warrants your discomfort and pain to experience something that transports you beyond reality into the field of fantasy of which I believe is the reason cinema exists. So please go see The Grand Budapest Hotel. I don't think you will regret it.

So no, I am not reviewing or posting to lament cinema or films state of reality. More to laud the beauty in sartorial ellegance and power of The Grand Budapest's design and aesthetic quality.

And this nomination for cinematic beauty goes to Milena Canonero the Costume designer of The Grand Budapest Hotel. Her Film credits are long and varied and include such works as The Clockwork Orange, The Shining, Ocean's Twelve and many of Wes Anderson's films. he clearly appreciates her vision and we are not disappointed with her latest venture here.

 

The film boast an array of outstanding acting hertiage but I will focus on the most powerful in their costume presence towards men's style. Whilst the outfits of TGBH may not be worn in everyday living they should certainly influence the trend towards the classic, traditional origins of todays suitings just as Robert Downey Jnr's Sherlock Holmes has. Incidently Jude Law is in both Sherlock Holmes and TGBH and perfectly attired in both as befits the character. I envy him.

So lets start with him. Jude Law:

Jude plays the young writer (Tom Wilkinson plays the present day older version and both are in identical costume) travelling alone in the now forlorn and soon to be demolished Grand Budapest Hotel and comes across a story that inspires a new book. Milena dresses him as a rather proper gentleman in heavy shooting tweed apparel with pipe to match. Smart, a little stuffy and shaded in earthy tones of oatmeal and beige.

Next is F. Murray Abraham who plays Zero the mysterious owner of TGBH who tells his story, of which the films plot follows.

We see him in two ages, as his younger self, and then in the late 60's when he meets the Young Writer Jude Law. His dress echoes a nostalgic stereotype of the 60's of someone garbed in turlenecks and wild facial hair. The velvet jacket he wears is a beautiful purple/blue contrasting nicely against the powerful red of his turtleneck.

Then is Ralph Fiennes as Gustave, The Grand Budapest Hotel's concierge, and a man of extreme servitude and loyalty to the excellence and honour of a type of Victorianesque habits. This is not set in England though. It's a fictional country in eastern europe called Zubrowka (a polish vodka is its namesake). His main costume is as the concierge and is as colouful as the film in general. Formal, impressive and immaculate.

The last I will do is Jeff Goldblum's character Deputy Kovacs. I could continue as this film is love letter to beautiful dress and many characters need at least small mention but have not the time or wish to do all and leave nothing to your hopefully soon visiti to see this gorgeous film

Deputy Kovacs tends to the dramatic in his manner as does his dress and Milena Canonera again gets it dead right. There is fussiness in his look and a grey overtone that may suggest a drab man but it is all elegantly entwined in such a style that speaks of the more businesslike gentleman of Milan. Large and wide peak lapels on his chalk stripe flannel suit match the man with a fantastic pair of spectacles which I must find out more about. He later wears a dove grey double breasted topcoat and and fedora (I think, will check).

All works to engance this great script and visual feast and transport us to a place and time that soothes us yet stimulates us. Like coffee. But one of those great artisan coffees that doesn't send bitter notes everywhere throughout the body and leaves us with demon breath for our friends and families to shy away from.

It lulls us and leads us gently by the hand somewhere wonderful. I suggest you go and see for yourself.

 

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What happens to your old suit? - A smart way to recycle.

I was scanning the streets around Covent Garden for peoples unique styles to photograph when I saw a stall with an outstanding use for recycling of old charity shop suits.

Step in the very savvy and elegantly dressed Edson Raupp at stall number 7 in Covent Garden Market who got the idea a while back to take old men's suits and turn those forgotten business relics and transfom them into some of the most glorious and ingenious carry items it for men and women to heft their personals around the city in style and luxury.

I asked Edson for some time to find out more about his business and the result is below.

 

 

How did you get into the business?

I have always made clothing and accessories for myself and when I first moved to London, in 1995, people would often comment favourably about my designs. In 1996 I started to make bags from jackets that I bought in charity shops which I then sold at Portobello Market. And later at Camden Market.

How long have you been making Suitcase bags and what obstacles did you have to overcome?

Over 16 years and I don’t feel that I had to overcome obstacles as such, rather that I realised that I would need to go through various stages to develop the designs and the business.

 

What is the process from collecting the suit, that you make the bags from, all the way through to selling the finished product?

These days I don’t need to visit charity shops very often to buy jackets as almost all my jackets are supplied by Oxfam who specially select the jackets for me.

I then check each jacket for any damage, replace pockets and buttons where necessary and then clean them.

I cut each jacket into the various parts that will form the different bags.

I then make the pockets that will be sewn into the linings of the bags.

Next I assemble the straps.

I then select the various components of a bag – sometimes mixing the parts from different jackets.

Lastly I sew the various parts together adding linings, straps and labels.

For some bags I will add additional buttons and labels (makers’ labels taken from the jackets) as decoration.

 

How many Suitcase bags do you make on average in a year?

I cannot give you annual number of bags but the amount is limited because I make each one myself.

 

What is your background in the fashion industry?

When young I used to help my father will small tasks in his tailoring business and later I studied Fine Art at University. There I was involved in costume design for theatre groups. I also at that time designed and sold jewellery.

 

What is your proudest moment of your career?

I am most proud when I spot someone in the street wearing one of my bags.

 

What advice do you have for designers starting a business from new?

My advice to new designers;

Keep making changes (big and small) to your designs as there is always something that can be improved. I am lucky that my Suitcase Bag business alone is able to give me a living. However from time to time I take on various design work often unrelated to fashion. I imagine I will continue to make the bags (every year finding chances for small refinements to the designs) for as long as people want to wear them.

 

I heartily recommend searching out the bags and Edson himself on stall number 7 in Covent Garden Market, London. And for the sake of courtesy mention that you heard of him through this post and see for yourself the incredible work he does on these artisan handmade suit bags.

The 'Suitcase' bags average around £45 which I think ridiculously good value considering you can pay hundreds for a machine made fashion bag with whom you will never have the pleasure of meeting the maker let alone the designer himself.

I myself have one of his bags. A fabulous yet understated grey mixed pattern creation that I have worn often since meeting Edson and want to thank him for his generous time in answering my questions. I look forward to seeing him again when my travels take me back past his stall.

 

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Your First Suit Ever

Navy or dark grey. There you go. Done. 

This is actually a tougher prospect to convince gentleman of then styles as most men will give way to an expert regarding fit and style but fight on colour and pattern as we think somethimes a plain coloured suit is boring. 

The main reason having your first suit ever as a plain navy or dark grey is simple. It's so you can wear it as French as needed and to most occasions and events and it will always look in place and never stand out as the only suit you have. 

Benefits of a navy or dark grey:

• Works well with nearly any shirt and tie colouring
• Both hide stains well
• Can be worn to most events if needed including weddings, funerals, formal events, the races, theatre, opera, red carpet events, christenings, job interviews, promotion interviews, board room meetings, press interviews, award ceremonies, etc....
• Looks classic all the time
• Will still be in fashion in 10 years time
• Will not be noticed as your only suit compared to a bold pattern or pinstripe
• At least one of them will suit everybodys complexion and style

 

 

All classic looking and very professional but can change the appearance totally with a colourful shirt and tie. 

You may notice that I think Daniel Craig looks rather well dressed. I do, but i like his look because he's not a pretty boy model he's rough around the edges like most of us. 

You see, we can all be James Bond if we try.

 

2 button:

Make it a classic two button too. Al the other styles are ok for later years but 3 button comes and goes nd personally looks naff on most guys, the double breasted is for when you have a larger rotation and the 4 button should never see the light of another day. Or night. 2 button will look good in a decade. The others may not. 

 

Hope all has helped. Contact me with any questions. 

 

Tailor Dan

Tailored suits

Getting a truly tailored suit is one of life's true privileges. And when you work as hard as you do it is one you justly deserve. But getting the right tailor is the hard part. Having someone who's mind is firmly on looking after your business for the rest of your career rather than just a one stop suit is what you want. That is why getting referred to a tailors is the best thing. Referrals means someone you know has physically tried and seen the product and service and are happy to have their name mentioned on as a referral.
Tailored suits are a dime a dozen. Well tailored suits are another thing. The bets in the world are still Savile Row. But I am biased, being English. The Italians will tell you it's Italy and they have a good arguement too. But I know English heritage the best in tailoring and in England, Savile row is still King.
There for a completely handmade suit you will be looking at £2500+ ($4000) roughly and will get a memorable experience. The row is centuries old and has dresssed royalty and stars of around the world during that time. Some of the finest designers in fashion have had their routes there and will always be synonymous with excellent and elegance.
So when referred to a tailor take a look at their history and judge the people you meet there. Classy companies will rarely condemn or bad mouth their competition. If you come across ones that do you may want to leave it right as if they talk like that about others in their field what may they talk about you or even their own company if they ever move on. People who bad mouth are always looking to blame someone else for mistakes in their lives. Those doing the best for their clients and themselves rarely need to talk this way as they are set upon being the best and that means raising your game and encouraging great competition in every area.
I have compiled a list of what I think makes a good tailor/tailoring company and hope it should be a good guide to whether you wish to have your career/appearance to be looked after by them.
To look for:

• A permanent business address which you can visit if needed.
• A website of some kind (those without either can't afford or don't know what is needed in business today)
• A price list - sounds silly but if there are no prices connected to certain makes of suit and level of cloths then it's likely the prices are just made up then and there depending on what they think you'll pay.
• Deposit - Ive heard of some companies that don't always take deposit but can you trust the long term structure of a company that doesn't cover it's costs at least?
• A method of measurement and the skill to explain - sounds again daft but if your tailored suit takes just 6 measurements or so to make then you are not getting a tailored suit. You're getting an off the peg adjusted. 
• Visual images - If you get a bespoke or made-to-measure suit then you won't know how it will truly look till you are fitted in it 4 - 12 weeks later, depending on tailor and construction. So the company/tailor you meet must be able to guide you some how and the best way is visually. So you should expect some idea of photo or drawing description so as to communicate design and pick out options.
• Some kind of guarantee - there are not many that fully guarantee their work but most have a 'fit till satisfied' promise in their terms. This may still mean you might be stuck with a suit you don't like or doesn't fit as not all establishments keep that promise or will refund you even if you are unsaid field but most should do their best to get your wishes. If you do come across a company that guarantees their gamers fully then take that as a great sign of confidence in their work as they will have to work hard to get it right or risk losing not only your custom but the money you have paid completely. His guarantee is a real risk reducer.
• Expect honesty - if the people you meet seem genuine and open and/or tell you their possible faults then take that as a good sign. I'd rather trust someone who admits they're human than someone who claims hey are perfect. I know which one will be true in the long run. 
• Expect them to look good - the person in front of you may not be able to actually measure their own clothes as this process is rather difficult. So a colleague of theirs would have had to do it. This then is a true test of whether their product and training are good enough. For if the tailor/clothier you meet looks terrible then they may have either no awareness of what looks good, or the company they work for might not be training very well their staff very well. 
• A receipt - this should be a must and if none is forthcoming then do not continue with the order. 
• Lastly, a fitting date - you may decide not to fix one there and then due to your constraints or unpredictable diary but one should always be offered. This will give you some security that they plan to return with the suit within a timeframe, let alone at all. If they offer none then consider whether you want this uncertainty but do bring it up with them and see their response.
• Do expect to get some hint should want but not everything - a good tailor will direct your wishes to maybe suggesting alternative that will make you look better then before. But if you have some real desire for certain features or options in your clothes then do stick to your guns unless they give good reason not too. They are there to make you look good but also achieve your wishes. 

The Classic suit

The next suit in line after the power suit is 'the classic'. A less dominating look that will still look well groomed and sharply turned out.

This is a simple change of Foreground and Focus elements. If you are wondering what those mean then see link attached to read my explanation of outfit elements or go to The Power suit' post direct from articles.

The Background is the same. A timeless navy suit and once again should be tailored for that true visual impact but at least get one fitted but not uncomfortable. Single breasted and two button.

The Foreground we're going to change to a light blue shirt - this calms down the power of the navy and makes the look much more friendly.

The focus changes as well to a classic navy tie. This is the main reason why the whole result becomes much more open and inviting.

If you wish to add some pop just change the blue shirt for a white one and the resulting image will be bolder but not quite so outspoken as the Power Suit combo.

First two pic is the white shirt look I was talking about but the rest are 'the Classic'.

The Classic

Anybody who sports this look can go to nearly any function and look outstanding whilst never to overbearing. Send me your pics of success' when trying this out.

Tailor Dan

The Power Look

Having a look that speaks volumes before youve even opened you rmouth can be worth serious success. Ever been in a meeting and because of your natural softer side you have lacked presence?

How about walking into a conference and looked like everybody else there, with no punch or swagger that is so needed when making your name, and more importantly, your message heard?

Or have you ever just wanted to stand out from the crowd and needed something other than shouting at the top of your lungs to be heard?

When my gents stand up they are noticed. Not because they are over dressed but becasue they exude the quiet confidence from knowing their image talks about them on their behalf.

Having the right suit is a great start, but combining it with the right shirt and tie makes the killer blow.

Imagine that yoru outfit comprise of three things:

1. The Background - this is what the whole picture will be based upon so is of course vitally important to get right. Get thsi wrong and nothing else will work. For painters it's the base and undercoat and landscape all rolled into one and needs to be seamless. This then is the suit. Tailored is best becasue a beautiful fabric from 50 feet away, whilst your are speaking on a podium collecting your busienss award or presenting your work, looks the same as a cheaper fabric.
Its the fit, style, and florishes that make the impact as to the background.

2. The Foreground - this the base on which the co-ordinates the rest of the picture and makes sense of lighjt to dark, front to back. This then is the shirt and can be a great tool in pulling gazes to you to make the statement intended.

3. the Focus - this is the main point of your picture. The area that actually meeds something fully defined and clear so that the whole view works. This is the tie. Choose a bad tie at your peril as it will be the thing that sticks out the most.

So now we know the 3 thiongs to work on it is really an easy road to getting the power look into visual arsenal. Don't worry though, this isn't going to be a brash affair or pull focus away from you the person. but it will pull focus to you and then help in communicating your message well.

Power Look combo:

• A two button single breasted navy suit with medium to large lapels (never skinny on the power look as it hints to trendy rather than business).

• A plain white crisp high quality shirt (if budget means a lower priced shirt then must have cufflinks and no pocket)

• The tie must be red or at least have a red presence.

If you see politicians around the most powerful countries in the world they will always be sporting this look (sometimes depending on party colours) because they have been advised by specialists that thsi look says power and authority. It on the other hand is the best look for trust or delivering bad news (this will be another post later on).


Wanted to show the always elegant Prince William wearing a slighly more relaxed version with a blue shirt as a comparison. Below are some crisp white shirts as forground.












Look below for examples used and see how bold they look. This is about dressing for the right occasion. Don't do it to fire someone, but you can do it for intervioews and getting promotions and talking infront of 300 people to help yopu build confidence knowing your image is backing up your words.

When to wear a double breasted jacket?

There are two guys wearing these at the moment. Guys who never stopped and new guys trying them out. It is a great look and a must if you have a suit rotation over 5 suits. Of course if this is all you want to =wear then you can buy from the word go. Up to you but would recommend shopping a bit higher up the high shop chains should you wish to buy off the peg.


The reason being is that single breasted jackets are much more done and if the high streets are trying a pattern out to get a small portion of a market then you may expect some kinks and mistakes along the way. So going to a more respected suit shop will pay dividends.













So places I would do a double breasted first time to gain confidence:

Sporting event: Wimbledon, Horse racing, Lords Cricket ground
Going out: The Theatre, Opera (if not DJ compulsory)
Friday work day
Summer weddings in more formal locations

Double breasted casual jackets are great in tweed but also rare. Are done more in coat styles but do add a great look. These can be worn to clubs and bars around the city and should be paired with contrast trousers in cotton or cords for a playful visual punch of colour.

Also double breasted suits are to be worn on the fitted side rather than the loose appendages of the late 20th century which hung off the body in the most inelegant of ways.
Trim and wide peak lapels (3 3/4" - 4 1/2") are the fashion but a classic style will stay looking good for longer so a medium peak lapel is best (3" - 3 1/2").


Below is a great gent wearing a wide 4" peak lapel and looks very elegant but with a fashion statement about it. Great look for that very individual suit to play around with.

What are suit lapels?

 Basic lapel guide:
There are three main types of lapel.

The notch

The peak

and the shawl

Notch lapels are most common and are de facto style for classic business wear. Peak lapels are traditional on double breasted jackets and should be mixed with your casual jackets regularly. The shawl lapel is rare and mostly seen, when used, on DJ's (tuxedos for my American readers).

What is the Truth about Semi-Bespoke and Custom Tailoring?

You may be led to believe by some establishments that your Semi-bespoke is made like this...






...or this...





...but in fact will be made here, and like this...





Most semi-bespoke or custom and definately all made to measures will be made in places like this from China to the Americas. It has been a natural progression to here as advances in technology made making a suit to specific patterns easier and the boom of import export materials world wide made better fabrics and linings cheaper to get with better and more frequent availability.

Having your sut made here does not mean that you will not get a finely tailored garment. That depends on the quality of the people responsible for translating your measurements to a machine pattern and executing that pattern. But some of the finest facilities can produce excellent garments that only 25 years ago would have been impossible.



In a lot of cases having something completely handmade (and I would say no tailors are likely to do 100% of the whole process hand sticthed any more...if ever) is pointless as, for instance, the side seams of the trousers. Is there any point to hand stitching this part of the trouser? Would it make them any stronger. Maybe, but as the tension on side seams is negligible unless spray on tight a machine stitch will do fine.







So semi-bespoke will always have a reasonably large amount of machine work in it but should have a lot of the important handwork done like the collar and lapels for a flawless appearance and fall, the floating canvas sewn in place to give the correct drape to the jacket, buttonholes for finishing appearance, solders and armholes movement and form and maybe hand stiching of the lining to the jacket for durability and a sign of quality. You will rarely have an expert cutter hand cut the panels of the suit from the fabric in semi-bespoke. Instead a computerised pattern will translate to a cutting machine in the facility where it will be made and cut to your exact measurements. The fit and drape should be far superior to that of M2M and off peg but full bespoke will always have that final edge and feel far different then semi. But it is still an amazing must for your wardrobe when you can't afford just yet to go fully bespoke.

Semi-Bespoke (or known as custom tailoring) will set you back anything from £700 - £2000 depending on fabric and amount of handwork done. If your paying less than that your more than likely getting Made to Measure of off the peg adjusted.

How to Get the Best Out of Your Suits?

What I want to achieve here is increasing the value of your basic wardrobe. I can do that by advising you on how to get better life out of your suits and better look from their appearance. And two things will affect this; first, the amount of suits you own and the level of quality you invest in concerning who makes it and how and what from. 

There is only one qualification....How much are you ready to spend?

I will state below what to do for whether spending from £1000 per year and above or under £1000 per year. I'll also add a bit for those real bargain hunters who have no cash at present but do need to dress well for work or just for fun




£1000 - £10,000 per year and beyond
You should be spending the lower end of this on made to measure as you should purchase more to build up your wardrobe if you are restricted to the lower end of this budget. In the previous post I explain more about rotation and why a good amount of suits is much better than 1 or 2 expensive ones. But if your rotation is over 10 suits then spending £3000 plus is a must to experience try tailoring and cloth at its best if you have not done so already.

Building up to 10 suits I would recommend buying 2 or 3 per year for around £1500 to £3000 so you can have some real elegance and still a well tailored experience. After 4 or 5 years you will no longer be buying suits or casual outfits for necesscity as you should have a good rotation to last a long while but now you can buy all the things you want but weren't in a position to justify before more essential items. Such items like casual suits for summer or winter, great tweed and check 3 pieces for going to the races in, an extra DJ for back up, tropical suit weights for your business trips to Asia or the Middle East, and so on.






Up to £1000
There are some lower end made to measure places that do a suit or casual outfit for less then £500 but from all the experiences I've heard from clients and businessman around London the consistency is way below par. Needless to say most of these will be garments made from block cuts in a far east factory so quality will vary depending on the measurements taken when ordering.

Above £500 you will find a much better product with more bells and whistles as to extras and maybe even some handwork here and there. Many places and visiting tailors will sell the word bespoke at prices under £500 but if that is possible the only place I have ever seen something close is the far east where commodities is a little cheaper but labour is hugely discounted so don't believe it.

If you think handmade when you hear the word bespoke then you are in agreement with Savile Row and most respectable tailors. But some will use the word with little care or tact. They could be describing a simple made to measure or, if they are dishonest, be giving you an adjusted off the peg, but I have as yet never seen a fully bespoke garnment made by a tailor in London or even Europe and America for less than £1500.

The fact is the word 'Bespoke' is a grey area in the garment making world. In 2008 the Advertising Standards Authority in Britain ruled that it was ok to call a suit that was entirely cut and sewn by machine as long as too some measurements were taken and made to order. In fact because of this ruling many items which in the past would have been called made to measure (cut and adjusted from a block pattern) are now called bespoke with no changes between the two.

So beware the description and ask these questions to determine made to measure, semi-bespoke and bespoke and pay to your budget:

Is the garment hand cut? Yes, Semi or full Bespoke. No, Off the Peg or Made to Measure.

Is the garment completely handmade? Yes, full Bespoke. No, Off Peg, M2M or Semi-Bespoke.

Is the cut made from a block pattern? Yes, Off Peg or M2M. No, Semi or Full Bespoke.

How long does the suit take to make? Under 20 man hours, Off Peg. 20-40 hours M2M. 40-60 hours, Semi-Bespoke. 60+ Full Bespoke.
These are rough averages as most establishments will tell you in weeks the delivery estimate but this is actual man hours by "cutters and master tailors". Also resulting time in far east is either due to very cheap and hard working labour force meaning you can churn out a completely handmade suit in just 4 days to 2 weeks or they lie. Personally, I don't know as some tailors are very reputable and others are just guys started up yesterday woth a shop front but will one day do my best to find out.

£200 and under
If you are only able to be in his group to begin your professional career then either do some hard searching in Charity shops (some of my greatest buys have come from these) or do some shopping around for fit and find a shop whose cut you like then buy as many as you can reasonably afford. But beware, high street shops are dictated by fashion so cut and style can change rapidly so that suit that fit last year may have changed completely to something new in design.

This is a fellow blogger that has a great blog, An Affordable Wardrobe, about finding fantastic quality garmenst in thrift stores in the states.

 Tailor Dan